Hey everyone, if you’ve ever worked with rotary drilling rigs, you know the track assembly is the unsung hero of that big machine. It’s the part that keeps your rig moving across uneven job sites, handling mud, rocks, and everything in between. As someone who’s spent years supplying rotary drilling rig track assemblies, I’ve seen my fair share of tracks that wear out, break, or just stop working like they should. Today, I want to break down the most common repair methods we walk clients through, because fixing your track assembly doesn’t have to mean dropping a ton of cash on a whole new part—if you know what you’re doing. Rotary Drilling Rig Track Assembly
First off, let’s get one thing straight: tracks take a beating. We’re talking about 50+ ton machines rolling over rough terrain, digging deep holes, maybe even getting stuck in soft mud. That means common issues range from worn sprockets to cracked track links, and even missing track pads. I’ve had clients come to me panicking because their rig won’t move, only to find out it’s a small, fixable problem, not a total replacement. Let’s dive into each repair method, what it fixes, and how to do it right (or at least, how we guide our customers to get it done without messing things up).
1. Track Pad Replacement – The Most Common Quick Fix
Track pads are the flat, rubber (or sometimes steel) pieces that sit on the ground, right? They take the brunt of the friction and impact from hitting rocks, sharp debris, or even hard concrete. Over time, they wear down—you’ll start to see the rubber getting thin, chunks missing, or steel pads getting dented so bad they can’t grip the ground anymore. This is the number one repair I see, and it’s pretty straightforward, but there are a few tricks to do it right.
Here’s how we walk people through it: first, you need to lift the track assembly off the ground so you have room to work. Some rigs come with built-in lifting points, so use those—don’t try to jack up the track itself, you’ll bend something. Next, if your track is still on the assembly, you’ll need to “relax” the track tension. Most tracks have a grease zerk that lets you adjust tension by adding or releasing grease; release a little so there’s slack, that makes swapping pads way easier.
For rubber track pads: if they’re bolted on, just unscrew the old ones, align the new pads, and torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specs (pro tip—don’t over-tighten, that can crack the pad or strip the bolts). If they’re glued on (less common on heavy rotary drills, but I’ve seen it), you’ll need to scrape off all the old adhesive, clean the track link surface with a degreaser, apply heavy-duty industrial adhesive, clamp it, and let it cure for 24 hours minimum before running the rig. Steel track pads are similar—just swap out the worn steel ones, make sure the bolts are grade 8 or higher, since those are way stronger for rocky job sites.
Wait, and when should you replace them vs. repair? If the rubber pad has a small tear that’s not exposing the steel underlayer, you can use a rubber patch kit, but that’s only a temporary fix. For anything more than a 2-inch tear or exposed steel, just swap it out. I’ve had a client try patching a pad and it fell off mid-drill, leaving them stranded for 3 days waiting for a replacement—worth the extra $100 for a new pad, trust me.
2. Track Link Straightening or Replacement – For Bent or Cracked Links
Track links are the metal “chains” that make up the track assembly. They connect the sprocket to the idler, and when one of these bends or cracks, that’s a bigger deal than a worn pad. What causes this? Usually hitting a hard object mid-drill—like a buried rock, a steel rebar, or even if the rig slips and drops the entire weight of the machine on one side. Bent links can make the track run lopsided, cause uneven wear on sprockets, and even throw the whole track off the assembly.
First, how do you check if a link is bent? Take a straight edge (like a long metal ruler or a level) and lay it across three adjacent links. If there’s a gap bigger than a quarter-inch, that link is bent and needs attention. For small bends, you might be able to straighten it with a hydraulic press. That’s what we recommend for minor bends—don’t try to do this with a big hammer, you’ll warp the link worse. Set the link in the press, apply slow, even pressure until it lines up with the straight edge, and then check it again to make sure it’s not over-straightened (that can make the link brittle and crack later).
But if the link has a crack longer than half an inch, or if it’s bent so bad you can’t straighten it without damaging it more, replacement is the only way to go. Swapping a track link isn’t as hard as it sounds once the track is slack. You’ll need a track pin tool (or a hydraulic pin press) to push out the old pin connecting the bad link to the next one, remove the broken link, line up the new link, and press a new pin in. Pro move: always replace the pin when you replace a link—don’t re-use old pins, they’re likely worn and can break later. Also, make sure you get links made from high-tensile steel, not cheap cast metal—those will crack again in no time.
3. Sprocket and Idler Repair – Fixing the “Teeth” of the Operation
The sprocket is the toothed wheel that drives the track, and the idler is the wheel that keeps the track tight on the other end. Both take a ton of wear, and if they’re messed up, your entire track assembly will stop working properly. Common issues here are worn sprocket teeth, cracked idlers, or even stripped teeth. I can’t tell you how many times a client has come to me saying “my rig won’t move forward only” and it turns out one side of the sprocket teeth is worn down so far they can’t grip the track links.
For sprockets: if the teeth are worn less than 1/3 of their original height, you might be able to do a sprocket “face grind” to reshape the teeth. Some machine shops offer this, and it’s way cheaper than buying a whole new sprocket. But if the teeth are worn more than 1/3, or if there are chips or cracks in the sprocket, you need to replace it. Swapping a sprocket is straightforward once you remove the track: just unbolt the old sprocket from the final drive hub, line up the new one, torque the bolts to spec, and re-tension the track.
Idlers are a little different—most idlers are under spring tension, so when you remove them, you have to be careful because that spring can snap if you don’t release the tension properly. The most common idler problem is the rubber bushing inside wearing out, which makes the idler wobble and wear unevenly. You can usually replace the bushing without swapping the whole idler, which is a big cost saver. Just make sure you use a lubricated bushing (not dry) to keep it from wearing out again. If the idler has a crack in the metal, though, replace it—wobbly idlers will ruin your track links way faster than a new idler costs.
4. Track Tension Adjustment and Roller Replacement – Small Fixes That Make a Big Difference
Wait, I grouped these two together because they’re often overlooked, but they cause most of the minor track issues people deal with. First, track tension: too loose, and the track will slip off the assembly, get caught on rocks, and wear out the links and sprockets fast. Too tight, and you’re putting extra stress on every part of the track, leading to cracked links and worn rollers. How do you check tension? For most rotary drilling rigs, you can put a pry bar under the track midway between the idler and the rear roller. If you can lift the track up 2-3 inches, that’s the right tension. If it’s more than that, add grease to the zerk (at the idler end) to tighten it. If it’s less than 2 inches, release some grease to slack it off. We always tell our clients to check tension every 50 hours of operation, especially on rough jobs—this small step prevents 90% of track derailments.
Rollers are the small wheels that sit under the track, carrying the weight of the rig as it moves. They spin constantly, so their bearings wear out, or the roller itself gets dented from rocks. If a roller is bad, you’ll hear a grinding noise when the rig moves, and you’ll see uneven wear on the track links under that roller. Replacing a roller is easy: jack up the track, remove the bolt holding the roller in place, slide out the old one, and pop in the new one. Again, replace the roller’s bearing if it’s serviceable, but if the roller housing is dented, just swap the whole thing. We also recommend using sealed roller bearings—they require less maintenance and last longer than open ones, which is a win for people working long days on job sites.
When Is It Time to Replace the Whole Track Assembly?
Okay, so we’ve covered the common repairs, but sometimes fixing individual parts isn’t enough. If your track links are heavily rusted and worn, the sprocket has deep chips, or the track itself has multiple broken links, it’s probably time for a full track assembly replacement. A lot of my clients try to patch things up for a few extra weeks, but then they end up having to replace the whole thing anyway, plus they’ve caused more damage to other parts. Plus, modern track assemblies are designed to be more durable, so a new one will save you money on repair costs in the long run.
A quick note on quality here: I’ve seen a lot of cheap track assemblies from no-name suppliers that break within a few months. As someone who supplies these, I always tell my clients to go for high-tensile steel parts, rubber pads with reinforced cords, and sealed rollers. They cost a little more upfront, but they don’t leave you stranded halfway through a drilling job, which is way more expensive than the part itself.
Rotary Drilling Rig Track Assembly Now, if you’ve got a track issue that you’re not sure how to handle, or you need parts to do a repair, just reach out. We’ve got all the parts you need, from track pads to full assemblies, and we can walk you through every step of the repair, no matter what size rig you’re working on. Don’t let a busted track slow down your drilling project—reach out today to chat about your needs, and we can help you get back to work fast.
References
- Caterpillar Inc. “Track-Type Tractor Repair and Maintenance Manual.” 2022.
- Liebherr Group. “Rotary Drilling Rig Track Assembly Best Practices.” 2021.
- Construction Equipment Association. “Guidelines for Track Component Repair and Replacement.” 2020.
- Komatsu Ltd. “Track System Troubleshooting and Repair Guide.” 2023.
Murphy Construction Machinery (Shandong) Co., Ltd.
Murphy Construction Machinery (Shandong) Co., Ltd. is one of the most professional rotary drilling rig track assembly manufacturers and suppliers in China, also supports customized service with low price. Please feel free to buy CE approved rotary drilling rig track assembly made in China here from our factory. For pricelist, contact us now.
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